These days, the vast majority of makeup users opt for makeup brushes made of synthetic fibers, primarily because they are less expensive than brushes made of natural bristles.
However, insiders and savvy makeup artists are still looking for custom makeup brushes made from natural hair, especially goat hair.
Like a piece of meat taken from an animal, there is something for every price. Depending on the quality, it will be more or less expensive.
There are many qualities of goat hair depending on the part of the animal from which it was taken.
Users may wonder why makeup brush manufacturers consistently ask them which quality they prefer: XGF, ZGF, BJF, HJF or TJF? In reality, there are more than 20 grades of goat hair: Xi Guang Feng (XGF), Zhong Guang Feng (ZGF), Bai Jian Feng (BJF), Huang Jian Feng (HJF), Ti Jian Feng (TJF), No. 0, No. 2, double-stretched, etc.
How XGF goat hair ranks against other Grades ?
In traditional Asian manufacturing grading systems, there are over 20 levels of goat hair. XGF goat hair sits at the absolute top of the hierarchy as an ultra-premium, high-quality natural bristle widely used for luxury makeup brushes. It stands out for its exceptional softness, making it highly effective at grabbing powder products while being incredibly gentle on the skin.
Generally just below the ultra-premium XGF goat hair, ZGF outperforming more common grades like BJF (Bai Jian Feng).
XGF and ZGF goat hair are therefore in the high-end category and are most often used for high-end makeup brushes.
Because of its natural scaling and ultra-fine tips, it allows for flawless blending, which is a major benefit over synthetic fibers. Because of its density and soft feel, ZGF goat hair is typically crafted into brushes used for powder, blush, highlighter, and soft contouring.
However, XGF goat hair is superior to ZGF goat hair and has become the most popular choice for high-end makeup brushes.
BJF and HJF goat hair are abbreviations of the Chinese expressions “Huang Jian Feng” and “Bai Jian Feng” and are sufficient quality for so-called “mass market” makeup brushes and is often found used by commercial brand makeup brushes.
To summarize
Often, users are unaware of the meaning of these abbreviations used to designate the different grades of goat hair. Goat hair is graded based on softness and hair cut.
- XGF (Xi Guang Feng): The gold standard. Ultra-premium, rarest, and most expensive. Such as those used by the Japanese Brands (Hakuhodo, Chikuhodo, Koyudo, Mizuho), the American brand Rephr and the European brand ESASH® • Natural Beauty Deluxe Brushes.
- ZGF (Zhong Guang Feng): Second highest grade. Excellent softness and the preferred choice for most elite-tier brushes,
- BJF (Bai Jian Feng): High grade. This is the industry standard for high-end retail brands,
- HJF (Huang Jian Feng): Good grade. More common, budget-friendly, yet offers reliable performance,
- Lower Grades (TJF, etc.): Coarser and less flexible, used primarily for mass-market products.
XGF goat hair is of the best quality and the most expensive.